Accidently ripped of eraser part of my oem stylus. Anyone know how to put this thing back together? or point me to site that can help. I believe I have the parts but maybe a spring is missing? use stylus daily for taking notes.. And buying a new one is kinda hard to find these days. Rather just fix the one I have. Thanks.
Help with stylus
- Thread starter cruzer
- Start date
Philtastic
Active Member
I wouldn't say that they're hard to find given that you can just order one from Microsoft's website (http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msca/en_CA/pdp/Surface-Pro-Pen/productID.264843800). You might disagree with the price, however.
Sweet deal... thanks but wont let me ship it to California ... well won't let me put in an address in Cali just Canada ... ill figure it out.. Thanks
Philtastic
Active Member
Oh crap, the US store doesn't have it. That's pretty funny. My guess is that they only had whatever stock they had from previous production of SP2s, thus they ran out in the US. In any case, you can use any Wacom stylus. I haven't really looked into others but there are a number of really good ones that artists use which should all work on the SP2 and might have more than 1 button that you can map other functions to with the Wacom Feel drivers.
Philtastic
Active Member
For alternatives to the stock Microsoft Surface Pro stylus, this thread might help:
http://www.surfacegeeks.net/forums/...hich-stylus-for-surface-pro-do-you-like-best/
Edit: Also, whatever pen you possibly end up getting, make sure that it's a Wacom active stylus rather than a passive one that might use capacitive nibs (such as most of the ones on the Microsoft store that aren't specifically Surface Pro pens). These other pens won't stick to the power outlet like the stock one does but the better feel and extra buttons will probably make up for that.
http://www.surfacegeeks.net/forums/...hich-stylus-for-surface-pro-do-you-like-best/
Edit: Also, whatever pen you possibly end up getting, make sure that it's a Wacom active stylus rather than a passive one that might use capacitive nibs (such as most of the ones on the Microsoft store that aren't specifically Surface Pro pens). These other pens won't stick to the power outlet like the stock one does but the better feel and extra buttons will probably make up for that.
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I had bought this one when it was available:
http://www.amazon.com/Fujitsu-Digitizer-replacement-Stylus-T5000/dp/B00791UTH2
It's been great and it's my everyday stylus now...
http://www.amazon.com/Fujitsu-Digitizer-replacement-Stylus-T5000/dp/B00791UTH2
It's been great and it's my everyday stylus now...
Ok.
You see the long thin piece of plastic that attached on the button of the earse. You should have 2. The second one is probably stuck in the silo of the pen (or fell out).
In my case, both of them broke. Here is a tear down picture of the pen tear down which I took, as mine was actually more than the eraser that was broken broken, but fixed it as an emergency pen.
If the peace is inside the pen silo, you need to separate the pen middle section (where you see a groove). It is sadly has a bit of glue used inside, so that the top part doesn't turn from the bottom and block you from magnetically attaching it to the Surface Pro device power connector. The way I have done it, is to twist it with a bit of force to break the glue. When I twisted it, I made sure not to apply pressure on the pen clip, as this will break, bend. So I hold on the top plastic part that holds the pen metal clip.
Once you got it free from the glue, you can now pull hard and it should come out. Be careful not to break the pen clip.
Once you separate them, you now have 2 pen parts as shown on the picture above. The circuitry is well inside each components. You want to get the eraser circuitry out. So looking at the inside of the eraser part of the pen, where you split it open, using a tool, you can push the inside. It will come out from where the top, where the button is. You should now find the missing plastic bit.
Careful: Notice the pick wire that forms a cylinder that comes out of the silo. the wiring is very thin and can break. Never pull on it or twist it.
You can now put back in place the pink cylinder in place (it doesn't hold great normally, so don't expect that), as in the picture.
Now, using crazy glue, A HINT of it, attach back the plastic clip that broke off, and that you retrieved. Be VERY careful to position it exactly where it is supposed to be attached on the pen button. And make SURE that not a trace of glue goes in the components INSIDE the pen button that dropped out, if it does, then it will be stuck inside, and the eraser will no longer work.
If the content of the pen button dropped out, you need to put it back the way it was exactly. Once you do, rebuild the pen and make sure it works correctly, and disassemble the pen again, without loosing the button order. From memory, they are 3 components. A spring, a white plastic cap, and what it looks like a mini ferrite core that looks to be the same material from what the pink wire wraps around of.
Once glued back, pay careful attention that the glue doesn't go inside the pen button. If you used crazy glue, it should dry within 5min or so, but I would wait extra time to make sure it is fully dry. See glue instructions.
Once dry, if you have too much glue protruding outside, you want to use sand paper or something to scrap it out. The pen doesn't have much wiggle room, so it will be blocked inside. and the eraser button won't come out on its own once pressed.
Once done, you are assemble back the pen. When you do, and ready to slide in the button so that it clips again and forming your pen back the way it was, look inside the silo of the pen first, you'll see 2x groves, for the plastic peace of the pen to slide in. Position the button accordingly, and slide it in. Your pen should be be fixed now.
You see the long thin piece of plastic that attached on the button of the earse. You should have 2. The second one is probably stuck in the silo of the pen (or fell out).
In my case, both of them broke. Here is a tear down picture of the pen tear down which I took, as mine was actually more than the eraser that was broken broken, but fixed it as an emergency pen.
If the peace is inside the pen silo, you need to separate the pen middle section (where you see a groove). It is sadly has a bit of glue used inside, so that the top part doesn't turn from the bottom and block you from magnetically attaching it to the Surface Pro device power connector. The way I have done it, is to twist it with a bit of force to break the glue. When I twisted it, I made sure not to apply pressure on the pen clip, as this will break, bend. So I hold on the top plastic part that holds the pen metal clip.
Once you got it free from the glue, you can now pull hard and it should come out. Be careful not to break the pen clip.
Once you separate them, you now have 2 pen parts as shown on the picture above. The circuitry is well inside each components. You want to get the eraser circuitry out. So looking at the inside of the eraser part of the pen, where you split it open, using a tool, you can push the inside. It will come out from where the top, where the button is. You should now find the missing plastic bit.
Careful: Notice the pick wire that forms a cylinder that comes out of the silo. the wiring is very thin and can break. Never pull on it or twist it.
You can now put back in place the pink cylinder in place (it doesn't hold great normally, so don't expect that), as in the picture.
Now, using crazy glue, A HINT of it, attach back the plastic clip that broke off, and that you retrieved. Be VERY careful to position it exactly where it is supposed to be attached on the pen button. And make SURE that not a trace of glue goes in the components INSIDE the pen button that dropped out, if it does, then it will be stuck inside, and the eraser will no longer work.
If the content of the pen button dropped out, you need to put it back the way it was exactly. Once you do, rebuild the pen and make sure it works correctly, and disassemble the pen again, without loosing the button order. From memory, they are 3 components. A spring, a white plastic cap, and what it looks like a mini ferrite core that looks to be the same material from what the pink wire wraps around of.
Once glued back, pay careful attention that the glue doesn't go inside the pen button. If you used crazy glue, it should dry within 5min or so, but I would wait extra time to make sure it is fully dry. See glue instructions.
Once dry, if you have too much glue protruding outside, you want to use sand paper or something to scrap it out. The pen doesn't have much wiggle room, so it will be blocked inside. and the eraser button won't come out on its own once pressed.
Once done, you are assemble back the pen. When you do, and ready to slide in the button so that it clips again and forming your pen back the way it was, look inside the silo of the pen first, you'll see 2x groves, for the plastic peace of the pen to slide in. Position the button accordingly, and slide it in. Your pen should be be fixed now.
@GoodBytes:
Great instructions, but I would like to suggest an alternative to glue. Using crazy-glue (I assume you mean Super Glue) will make it very difficult to disassemble a second (or more) time. I'd suggest assembling as instructed without any glue, then use some good quality 1" wide, 3M electrical tape to wrap around the joint, maybe two layers. The internal overlapping design of the two major parts of the stylus, will ensure more than enough stability and future tear downs just means unwrapping the tape.
I suggest 3M tape, not because I work there or have Shares, but their tape products never ooze goop in use.
Great instructions, but I would like to suggest an alternative to glue. Using crazy-glue (I assume you mean Super Glue) will make it very difficult to disassemble a second (or more) time. I'd suggest assembling as instructed without any glue, then use some good quality 1" wide, 3M electrical tape to wrap around the joint, maybe two layers. The internal overlapping design of the two major parts of the stylus, will ensure more than enough stability and future tear downs just means unwrapping the tape.
I suggest 3M tape, not because I work there or have Shares, but their tape products never ooze goop in use.
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